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About Linen |
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BIOLOGY
Flax is an annual of the family Linaceae. There are over 200 varieties of flax plants that, depending on the regional conditions and climate, range in length (from 25 to 125 cm), shape (sparsely and heavily branched varieties) and maturity periods (from fast-growing varieties spread in the north latitudes and mountainous regions to slower-growing varieties cultivated on irrigated soils in Asia).
Flax blooms in clusters of bluish, navy-blue, and, more seldom, violet, rosy and white flowers that open up at dawn and close and fall at around noon when heat sets in. Each flower blooms for a few hours. Bees collect close to fifteen kg of honey from one hectare of flax field.
Commercially grown flax crops are grouped into two main types - fiber flax and seed flax, the former is generically referred to as long-stalked flax and the latter as crown flax.
Long-stalked flax is grown for fiber and cultivated as a spring crop on primarily silt or clay loams in a moist and warm climate. It is traditionally grown in no more than twenty countries worldwide, mainly in middle Europe and also Egypt, Turkey, China, Argentina and Chile. Long-stalked flax supposedly spread from Russia.
Compared to fiber flax, crown flax tends to require more sunlight and less moisture and is mainly cultivated for linseed oil (yielding up to 52% of linseed oil by weight).
HISTORY
Flax is believed to be one of the most ancient agricultural crops. An archeological dig carried out at the site of Neolithic lake dwellings in Switzerland turned up charred remains of food prepared from flaxseed, and remnants of linen threads, ropes, cloth and fishing nets. So man had already been growing flax as far back as Neolithic times. Traces of flax cultivation relating to the Bronze Age were found in archeological excavations in Spain. However, most of the finds of early flax cultivation relate to the Iron Age. They show that perennial narrow-leafed flax was cultivated all across Europe as far as Scandinavia. Archeological excavations at the site of Iron Age settlements in Germany discovered remains of bread prepared from wheat, millet and flax seeds. Many archeological finds, literary records and linguistic studies also point to India, Khoresm, Turkmenistan, Asia Minor, Transcaucasia, Abyssinia, Algeria, and Tunisia as ancient flax cultivation areas.
Domestication of fiber flax to say nothing of seed flax occurred in India and China before that of cotton - more than 5,000 years ago. There is evidence that as far back as 3,000 - 4,000 years B.C. flax was grown for fiber in Mesopotamia, Assyria and Egypt where the finest linen cloths were spun. The ancient historian Herodotus mentions linen cloths where each thread consisted of 360 finest strands presented as a gift to Athena of Rhodos. Flax was extensively raised in Colchis that used linen to pay tribute to the Turks. According to one account, the voyage of Argonauts from Hellas to Colchis for the Golden Fleece was in fact prompted by a desire to obtain the secret of making fine flax yarn that was treasured as much as gold and was as good as that produced in Egypt.
Some scholars believe that flax originally came from western Persia and spread over to other countries regarded to be the regions of early flax cultivation - India, China and Central Asia and westwards and southwestwards, primarily, to Babylon and Egypt. Mummies wrapped in linen shrouds were found in the Pyramids dating from more than 5,000 B.C. (now exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum in New York). Egyptian priests wore clothes made of linen that symbolized purity of light and fidelity. Flax crop failure was thought to be equal to "seven Egyptian punishments".
There are grounds to believe that both ancient Romans and Greeks first brought flax from Egypt. The earliest mention of flax cultivation in ancient Greek and Roman literary records goes back to the 6th century B.C. The words lion (Greek) and linum (Latin) are encountered in the texts by Homer, Herodotus, Theophrastus and Pliny. Linen was used to make clothes, combat outfits, bed wrappers, sailcloth and cordage. It was also used as canvas in painting.
Gauls and Celts, the earliest flax growers in western Europe, learned about flax from Romans while Slavs, who were the first to start cultivating flax in eastern Europe, brought it from Greece. In the regions of early flax cultivation in Central Asia (Afghanistan, mountainous areas of Bukhara, Khoresm and Turkmenistan) flax cultivation had remained primitive until the turn of the 20th century.
Flax has been known in Russia since 2000 B.C. Ancient manuscripts of the 9th-10th century B.C. contain evidence of linen made by Slavs. Oriental writers of the time described Slavs attired in linen clothes. Prior to the formation of Kievan Rus, all Slavic tribes that inhabited the eastern European plain raised flax. Flax was used to make sailcloth, fishing nets, ropes and linseed oil. In the 10th-11th centuries A.D. flax was extensively grown for fiber and seed. It was regarded to be an important crop both for crafts and commerce. Peasants used it to pay feudal dues and make payments to the czar's treasury. Russian princes collected tribute in linen. In the late 19th-early 20th century Russia emerged as the leading producer and exporter of flax and linen among European nations.
On several occasions the advent of new, less labor-consuming fibers (cotton, viscose and other synthetic fibers) seemed to have put flax cultivation on the brink of economic ruin. But each time flax fiber production managed to survive and advance offering textile fabrics of high consumer properties owing to combining linen with new fiber materials.
Here are a few more interesting facts about flax fiber:
• The famous Turin Shroud that bears the image of Jesus Christ and was used to wrap his body is spun from flax fibers. There is also evidence that the towel bearing Christ's image - Redeemer not painted by human hands - was also made of linen.
• Prior to the invention of paper, manuscripts used to be written on linen. One of the most renowned manuscripts - the Linen Book by ancient Etruscans - was written on linen in the 7th century B.C.
• In ancient Greece linen clothes were the privilege of high priests.
• The great army leader Alexander of Macedon wore an armor made of … linen cloth to protect him in battle. It was said to be impenetrable to the foe's sword.
• In ancient Rus linen clothes used to be worn on festive occasions. The first ever standard in Russia approved by Peter the Great was the one about linen.
Linen is the most ancient fabric known to man. For centuries people have been growing flax to make fiber and weave linen. But despite its venerable age flax remains to be as young as ever.
MAKING THE FIBER
After harvesting and rippling flaxseed, the flax straw is subjected to a biological treatment (retting) to break down the binding between the fibrous and woody portions of the plant. For this purpose flax is unbundled and spread on the ground (dew retting) or wetted in special tanks. A bacterial fermentation decomposes the pectins that cement together the bast fiber and the woody portion. Depending on the mode of treatment (there are also chemical and physical-chemical modes of treatment), it takes from two to three weeks to complete the process of separating fibers from the wood.
The resultant straw called stock is dried in special machines and then mechanically treated to separate long and short fibers. This process consists of three stages.
Firstly, the straw stems are spread into a continuous uniform layer and turned at a certain angle to achieve their parallel alignment.
Secondly, they undergo a scutching process when the straw stems are first crushed and broken in breaking machines to fragment and separate the woody central portion of the flax stem. The wood breaks up while the fiber bends and remains intact. The stem wood so separated is called shives. The resultant straw coming from the breaking machine is called crude fiber.
The final and most important operation of obtaining the long fiber is carried out by scutching machines where the crude fiber is held tightly near one end while the free end is subjected to a beating and scraping action. This completes the scutching process whereby the long fiber is separated from the woody portion. The long fiber is then quality-graded and pressed into bales.
The shorter fiber, called tow flax, and shives are used for making boards and panels.
SPINNING AND WEAVING
Spinning and weaving are extremely intricate operations.
Prior to spinning the long fiber is combed with the help of hackling machines to produce fine and slightly curled plaits, called rove.
The rove after being kiered, bleached and dyed is ready for spinning.
Currently there are two spinning methods applied - wet and dry spinning. In wet spinning the rove is treated with warm and hot water to dissolve pectin substances and drawn by means of special devices to split thick fibers into elementary strands and produce uniform, fine and durable yarn. The yarn so produced is then spooled and dried and used for making threads or linen cloth.
In dry weaving no pectin dissolution occurs and thick fibers only become realigned against each other on drawing. As a result, the yarn appears to be coarser and less durable and primarily finds application in the manufacture of technical cloths.
Weaving is the process of making cloth. The cloth is made on a loom by using two sets of threads running perpendicular to each other and getting interwoven as the loom works.
The threads running lengthwise are called warp threads, those running crosswise are
called weft threads. The edge of the cloth is made of twist yarn.
Where cotton yarn is added, the linen cloth is referred to as semi-linen.
Linen cloth is differentiated by its application and texture as:
• Table damask (tablecloths and napkins);
• Towel damask and terry-loop cloth;
• Garment cloth (hopsack, tricot fabric, etc.);
• Bed spread cloths, fine, terraced and ticking;
• Coarse cloths, crinoline, tarpaulin, packaging and bag cloths as well as fire-hose cloths, etc.
Linen cloth is manufactured in unbleached, semi-bleached, bleached and dyed varieties. Used in combination with Dacron, it greatly enhances its properties.
PROPERTIES OF LINEN
Since early times flax has been reputed to possess curative properties. This fact has been borne out by the present-day studies. The very word flax meant "being most useful" in Latin.
Indeed, turned into a multitude of household things, flax possesses important, truly exceptional, hygiene and consumer properties that explain why things made of it enjoy such popularity:
• flax cell is highly compatible with the human cell thereby producing a benevolent effect on the human organism. The human cell is capable to completely dissolve the flax cell. That is why flax fabric appears to be the only natural material applied in surgery for internal sutures;
• used as underwear and bed linen it reduces fatigue and lifts spirits;
• flax fabric is an excellent filter protecting against a chemically aggressive medium, noise and dust;
• linen reduces gamma radiation nearly by half and protects the human organism against solar radiation. Flax fiber from contaminated soils appears not to exhibit even traces of radiation;
• linen underwear possesses rare bacteriological properties. Resistant to fungus and bacteria, it is found to be an effective barrier to some diseases. According to medical studies conducted by Japanese researchers, bed-ridden patients do not develop bedsores where linen bed sheets are used. Wearing linen clothes helps to get rid of some skin diseases - from common rash to chronic eczemas;
• linen does not cause allergic reactions and is helpful in treating a number of allergic disorders;
• linen is effective in dealing with inflammatory conditions, reducing fever and regulating air ventilation, and is also helpful in the treatment of some neurological ailments;
• linen cloth does not accumulate static electricity - even a small addition of flax fibers (up to 10%) to a cloth is enough to eliminate the static electricity effect;
• linen is highly hygroscopic as it is capable to rapidly absorb and yield moisture. It evaporates water as quickly as the pond surface. It has been established that before giving a feeling of being wet, linen cloth can absorb as much as 20% of its dry weight. That explains why linen cloth always feels fresh and cool;
• linen possesses high air permeability and heat conductivity properties. Heat conductivity of linen is five times as high as that of wool and 19 times as that of silk. In hot weather those dressed in linen clothes are found to show the skin temperature 3°-4°C below that of their silk or cotton-wearing friends. According to some studies, a person wearing linen clothes perspires 1.5 times less than when dressed in cotton clothes and twice less than when dressed in viscose clothes. Meanwhile in cold weather linen is an ideal warmth-keeper;
• linen is renowned for its spectacular durability and long life. The tensile strength of linen thread is twice as high as that of cotton and three times that of wool;
• silica present in the flax fiber protects linen against rotting - the mummies of Egyptian Pharaohs preserved to the present day are wrapped in the finest linen cloth;
• linen rejects dirt and does not get teaseled;
• linen and linen-containing articles are easily laundered in hot water, may be boiled and dried in the sun, besides they may be hot-ironed thereby ensuring maximum sterilization;
• the more linen is washed the softer and smoother it becomes;
• linen underscores naturalness, softness and relief; creasing is yet another precious property possessed by linen; and
• linen has a smooth surface and mat luster and feels pleasant to the touch.
FLAX FIBER APPLICATION
Natural properties of flax-based products make a perfect choice for use as household textiles, interior furnishings, textile wallpaper and wall coverings - they do not get deformed, retain their color and luster and do not fade, and have a long-life cycle.
Technical linen has found application in automotive, rubber, shoe and even aircraft industry. Flax fiber is used for the production of tarpaulin, sailcloth, driving belts, hoses and fishing nets.
Owing to its waterproofing properties, flax fiber is used as a base in the manufacture of roofing materials.
Being hygroscopic, air-permeable and aseptic, linen textiles are widely used in medicine as absorbent wool that prevents the development of infection and micro-flora, atraumatic dressings, woven and combined bandages, surgical thread that readily dissolves in the human organism.
Flax tow finds application in the building industry as a heat-insulating material. Used in the construction materials it appears to be a great energy and fuel saver.
Flax tow has also proved to be very promising in the production of an effective filtering material applied in waste-cleaning processes.
Besides fiber, flax is grown for oil that finds application in the manufacture of foodstuffs, soaps, paints and varnishes, rubber, etc. Linseed oil is an important component in the production of oilcloth, linoleum, waterproof cloths and top-quality leathers.
Linseed oil is also widely used in medicine and cosmetology.
The flax woody portion, shives, is used for the production of boards and blocks that successfully compete with more common wood chip and fiber boards. It is also used as fuel in water boiler-houses.
Linseed meal is a valuable feed for livestock.
LINEN CARE GUIDELINES
Before laundering your linen, please, read carefully the instructions on our product information sheet or on the care label attached.
Here you will find a few suggestions that will help you retain the beauty and long life of your linen.
Washing Tips
Linen just loves to be washed and ironed. The more linen is washed the softer, nicer and shinier it becomes.
First, use the right washing agents. The detergents that contain bleaching agents are perfect for white linen but should not be used for washing colored linen or else your linen would get discolored or spotted. Only bleach-free detergents must be used for washing colored articles. Use pure soap or gentle detergents. Soap works best in soft water. Never use chlorine bleaches to avoid damage to the fiber. Only oxygen-type bleaches should be used for white linen laundering. However, no bleach should be used when washing spun, colored or embroidered linen.
If the water you use is hard due to a high lime content add a softening agent, especially for darker-colored articles. Use plenty of water because linen is very water-absorbent. Water temperature should be selected according to the care instructions attached to your linen article. If the temperature exceeds the recommended maximum temperature it may lead to fabric shrinkage.
Never wash darker-colored pieces together with lighter-colored articles - if you do, you risk spoiling both.
Do not overload your washing machine, so linen can move freely - if you do, the fabric color may get streaked. When machine washing, put delicate or fringed items in a pillowcase or a net bag to reduce wear and tear.
Whether washing by hand or by machine, linen items have to be thoroughly rinsed in plenty of water to remove all soap, detergent and residual soil and prevent the formation of the so-called age spots due to the oxidation effect.
Do not soak, boil off, rub or wring out embroidered articles.
When washing colored embroidered articles, add a touch of salt. Also add a touch of vinegar when rinsing colored linen - that will help prevent color fading.
Remove stains when still fresh. If allowed to set, stains may be hard, if impossible, to remove at a later date (for more information see our Stain Removal Tips below).
If you take your linens to an outside laundry, don't forget to tell them that your articles are linen-made.
Drying Tips
Do not wring out linen before drying. Whatever drying method you choose - line drying, tumbler drying or lying out on a terry towel - make sure your linen articles are slightly damp before ironing. That will make your subsequent ironing job easier. Drying white linen in the sun helps retain the original white color. It is a good idea to lay out your laundered item, pull it into shape and pat it flat to minimize wrinkles and thereby save your ironing time. Over-drying leads to the loss of the natural moisture content and makes linen brittle. Over-dried items restore their natural moisture content after re-absorbing moisture from the air.
Ironing Tips
As it has just been pointed ou,t ironing is easier when the laundered items are still slightly damp. Be sure that the soleplate of your iron is clean and smooth. If you have a steam iron check out the soleplate for mineral deposits - they can cause brown spotting. Use well-padded boards with smooth heat-reflective covers - it will reduce your ironing time. Iron linen articles until they are smooth but not dry, then hang or spread them out to become bone-dry.
If you postpone ironing until some later time put laundered items in a plastic bag and place it in the refrigerator or a freezer from 6 to 24 hours. It will help them remain damp and prevent mildew formation.
For extra crispness spray the laundered items, especially napkins, with starch and iron at a medium to hot setting - it will allow you to fold napkins into a variety of fancy shapes. If you prefer a softer look, use spray-on fabric sizing.
In case of light-colored linens, iron on the wrong side first, then on the right side to bring out the sheen. As regards dark-colored articles, iron on the wrong side only.
When ironing embroidered linen, keep the embroidery stitches rounded and dimensional and iron on the wrong side on a soft terry towel to avoid the risk of flattening it out. Special care should be taken while ironing delicate lace and cutwork to avoid tearing it with the iron - use a press cloth to safeguard against it. Press cloth also helps to avoid press marks over seams, hems and pockets.
Do not iron on a patterned cloth because there is a risk that it may get imprinted on the embroidery. Do not fold up the items just ironed - they should be kept spread out for some time to dry.
Place a table next to the ironing board when ironing large items such as tablecloths. Roll finished sections of the cloth over the table rather than letting it pile up under the ironing board. You can prevent tablecloth creasing by rolling the tablecloth around a tube as you continue ironing.
Dry Cleaning Tips
If care instructions provide for both dry cleaning and washing the choice is entirely yours. If you prefer dry cleaning to laundering, turn to dry cleaners who work on the premises. It would be also a good idea to find out whether solvents are regularly changed. If they are not, there is a risk that your white linens may turn gray or yellow.
Storage Tips
Linen is best stored in a cool, dry and well-ventilated area. Always launder or dry-clean linen before storing to prevent mildew growth. If mildew does strike, brush the mold off outdoors to avoid spore scattering in your house, soak the item in an oxygen-bleach water solution, launder it and dry in the sun. Use pure linen, cotton or muslin and acid-free paper to protect against dust or as bags. Do not use synthetics or regular tissue paper, plastic bags, cedar chests or cardboard boxes for storing your linens. If linen articles are stored for a long time, refold them from time to time.
Stain Removal Tips
Remember that fresh stains are easier to remove than old ones. Never use chlorine bleach - it can damage the fabric.
Always follow stain removal product directions. Make a point of testing a stain removal substance before applying it. Do it using a hidden part of the cloth. After applying the remover, let it stand for 2-5 minutes, then rinse. Should the color change, do not use the product on the fabric. Never put stain removers directly into the washing machine. Do not mix stain removers together.
When removing a stain, place the stained area face down on a clean paper towel or white cloth. Avoid applying the remover on the embroidery.
Always launder items after treating to remove residues of the stain and the stain remover.
You can also try the traditional way: spread the linen out in the sun in your back yard for a few days.
Remember that some stains cannot be removed.
Stain Removal Chart
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| Ballpoint Ink |
Hold stain against towel, spray closely from behind with aerosol hair spray. |
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| Beverages |
Soak in cool water. Re-wash with stain remover. Launder using oxygen bleach (for white linen). |
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| Blood |
Rinse immediately in cold water. |
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| Candle Iax |
Chill with ice and scrape off as much as possible with dull side of knife, then iron between absorbent paper, changing paper until wax is absorbed. |
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| Chocolate |
Pre-wash with product containing enzymes in warm water or treat with pre-wash stain remover. Launder. |
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| Collar, Cuff Soil |
Pre-wash with stain remover, liquid laundry detergent or paste of granular detergent and water. Launder. |
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| Cosmetics |
Pre-wash with stain remover, liquid laundry detergent or paste of granular detergent and water or rub with bar of soap. Launder. |
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Deodorants
Anti-perspirants |
Pre-treat with liquid laundry detergent. Launder. For heavy stains pre-treat with pre-wash stain remover. Allow to stand for 5 to 10 minutes. |
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| Fruit Juice |
Rinse with cool water. |
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| Grass |
Launder using oxygen bleach (for white linen). |
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| Grease Spots, Oil |
Pre-treat with pre-wash stain remover or liquid laundry detergent. For heavy stains, place stain face down on clean paper towels. Apply cleaning agent to back of stain. Replace paper towels under stain frequently. Let dry, rinse and launder. |
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| Ink |
Use ink eradicator (only for undyed, untreated linen). |
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Lemon,
Lime Juice, Vinegar |
Rinse immediately with cool water. |
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| Lipstick |
On pure linen, rub with a little salad oil to dissolve lipstick, then launder to remove oil. |
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| Meat Juice |
Rinse with cool, never hot, water. |
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| Perspiration |
Use pre-wash stain remover or rub with bar of soap. If color of fabric has changed, apply ammonia to fresh stains, white vinegar to old stains and rinse. Launder using hottest water safe for fabric. |
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| Red Wine |
Cover with salt if stain is fresh, and then rinse with cool water. If stain has dried, try rinsing with club soda. |
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| Tar |
Scrape residue from fabric. Place stain face down on paper towels. Sponge with cleaning fluid. Replace towels frequently. Launder in hottest water safe for fabric. |
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| Tomato |
Rinse with cool water. |
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| Coffee/Tea |
Stretch fabric tautly over a bowl and pour boiling water from high above. |
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| White Wine |
Rinse with club soda. |
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